Hidden deep within the woodland of the Wye Valley, The Whitebrook is the kind of place you don’t simply stumble upon – you seek it out. And for good reason. This Michelin-starred restaurant, led by chef-proprietor Chris Harrod, offers a truly immersive dining experience that celebrates the landscape in every bite.
A Michelin-Starred Escape
Our evening centred around the nine-course tasting menu, a carefully choreographed journey through the seasons, paired with a thoughtful wine flight that elevated each dish.
The opening course of Carrot and Alexander, served with a lightly fermented heritage carrot juice, immediately set the tone. Bright, earthy and gently tangy, it was a dish that felt alive – an introduction to Harrod’s signature style of letting ingredients speak for themselves.
Next came Wye Valley asparagus, cooked over pine embers and paired with hogweed, fiddlehead ferns and a delicate mead sauce. This was spring on a plate – smoky, green and quietly complex. A Bacchus from Monmouthshire complemented the dish beautifully, its crisp acidity echoing the freshness of the landscape.
The Cornish brown crab brought a shift in tempo, with pickled magnolia, horseradish and damson umeboshi adding layers of acidity and umami. Paired with a Roero Arneis from Italy, the wine’s floral notes and minerality lifted the dish effortlessly.
As the courses unfolded, Harrod’s deep connection to place became ever more apparent. The BBQ heritage radish with woodruff cultured cream and three-cornered garlic was both playful and refined, while the roasted and raw local cauliflower – served with oyster emulsion and fermented gooseberry – balanced richness with sharp, almost electric acidity.
A standout for many was the braised monkfish, accompanied by nettles, pickled sea lettuce and young herbs. It was a dish that perfectly captured the restaurant’s ethos: hyper-seasonal, foraged, and deeply rooted in its surroundings.
The main course of Ryeland hogget, served with local goat’s curd, kohlrabi and wild garlic, was rich yet restrained. Paired with a Visan Côtes du Rhône, it delivered warmth and depth without overpowering the delicacy of the ingredients.
Desserts continued the narrative of the land. Dandelion root with woodruff and parsnip offered an unexpectedly savoury sweetness, while the forced Wye Valley rhubarb with toasted birch wood ice cream, hazelnut and quince was a beautifully judged finale – sharp, smoky and indulgent in equal measure. A sweet Madeira provided the perfect closing note.
It goes without saying – but it’s worth saying nonetheless – that exceptional food alone doesn’t guarantee a truly memorable dining experience. At The Whitebrook, the wider experience is just as thoughtfully curated. The setting, nestled in tranquil woodland, creates an immediate sense of calm, while the understated, nature-inspired décor allows the food to remain the focus. What truly elevates the evening, however, is the service. Our waiter, Rhys, struck the perfect balance between professionalism and warmth, delivering each course with knowledge that was both insightful and engaging without ever feeling overbearing. Likewise, our sommelier guided us through the wine pairings with quiet confidence, enhancing each dish with carefully chosen wines that complemented and elevated the flavours. Together, they ensured the entire experience felt seamless, personal and deeply enjoyable.
What makes The Whitebrook truly special is its unwavering commitment to sustainability and foraging. Much of what appears on the plate is grown in the restaurant’s own kitchen garden or sourced from the surrounding hedgerows and woodland. This dedication has earned the restaurant not only a Michelin Star but also a Michelin Green Star, alongside numerous other accolades.
This isn’t everyday dining – and nor should it be. But for those who appreciate thoughtful, place-led cooking, it is an experience that lingers long after the final course.
The Whitebrook
Whitebrook
Near Monmouth,
Monmouthshire
NP25 4TX
01600 860 254
info@thewhitebrook.co.uk
Instagram: @thewhitebrook
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Check out our previous Whitebrook review…
It was back in 2021. It was equally good then! Click here!
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